Day 126 ~ Forest & Fort

Jeff and Joey's beautiful home was built and designed by Jeff.

His company is: latitude38llc.com

Now that's a BIG leaf!

Gregory and Felipe

Mike packing up to go to Mechanicsville

Joey, Felipe and Jeff

Goodbye to new friends Joey, Jeff and Felipe

The Fort (and Forest) at Penny and Keith's Home

Hooray for Bubble Baths!

Date: November 22, 2009

From: Charlottesville,Virginia

To: Mechanicsville,Virginia

Route: Hwy. 64

Miles Today: 0 miles

TOTAL MILES: 3,577 miles

Top Speed on this trip: 54.1 mph

Weather: Sunny and warm

License Plates Collected: 5 Montana, 8 Wyoming (2 motorcycle) and 1 Idaho (found in WY), 2 Colorado, 1 Kansas (Gifted from David of Baldwin City), 1 Missouri (To be sent to Grammy’s by our new buddy, Kansas City firefighter Shawn), 1 Illinois, 4 Kentucky (2 Gifted from Beth and Garry Feltus, one gifted from cousin John, one from Hwy. 127), 1 Virginia

Flats: 11

Broken Spokes: 3

Cracked Rim: 1

First thing Gregory said when we arrived at the home of Penny and Keith Mead was, "They have a forest!" (Behind their home that is.) He soon discovered a fort and plenty of poplar limbs to make swords. It is the yard all boys dream of with lots of room to explore and roam. They even have a creek that is at times suitable for canoeing.

We said our goodbyes to Joey, Felipe and Sammy in the morning and made the drive to Mechanicsville in Jeff's truck. Though we originally planned to ride these 70+miles in two days we took advantage of the opportunity to spend another day with Jeff and Joey and make the visit to Monticello. It was also a chance to give my knees a rest. When we tried to find a good place to have Jeff drop us off at some mid-point along our route nothing made any real sense because it would take him longer to get us to a point on the route than to just make the straight shot on Highway 64 and drop us in Mechanicsville. Though it was a beautiful day for riding, and I felt a little funny taking a truck ride all the way to our destination, I was greatly relieved to have another day to rest my knees. I know I have three very full days of walking in Washington D.C coming up.

After we ate lunch with Jeff, he dropped us off and we said our goodbyes. We wished him well and said we hoped our paths would cross again. I think we all hit it off. Jeff and Mike had a lot in common with their backgrounds in construction and they seemed to relate well and to have had some interesting conversations. We really enjoyed our stay.

Penny and Keith gave us a warm greeting and we spent a long time just visiting outdoors in the glorious sunshine and I ventured down out back as Gregory beckoned to me to check out the fort and "the forest". Mike always talks about playing in the woods out behind their house in Ohio when he was growing up and this is what I imagined that to be like. Later in the afternoon Mike helped Gregory notch some limbs Greg had cut with his Swiss Army knife and they lashed them together with string provided by Keith. Anytime Gregory can create something he is happy and in his element. Getting to work with Dad is a bonus. Gregory also brought out his small piece of rope and showed Keith and Penny the square knot he's been practicing. Keith and Penny are boaters and were impressed with Gregory's newly acquired skills. I am too because I am terrible at knots!

We visited nonstop all afternoon, through a delicious dinner at Olive Garden and well into the evening. Penny and Keith admitted that when Megan (Mike's cousin and their sister-in-law) first told them about us and what we were doing they weren't quite sure what to think. We are sure glad they opened their hearts and home to us. I think they have enjoyed our stories of the road and I know we have enjoyed meeting them. We look forward to returning on Friday after our week in the Maryland/D.C. area and having more time to get to know one another.

Gregory enjoyed a nice warm bubble bath and a chance to explore their attic as well. Keith found us some bags to use for our D.C. jaunt and also brought out some Christmas bears that his boys received many Christmases ago. Gregory welcomes any chance to add more "friends" to his stuffed animal menagerie even if only for a brief time. He wanted to bring a koala bear backpack along on the D.C. trip but we had to say no to that one. I know I'd be the one who would end up carrying it! We are catching a train bright and early at 8:00A.M. so it is time to get some sleep.

Day 125 ~ Monticello

Monticello

Monticello Gardens

Ice House - Ice was brought up from the river in the winter and kept here lasting until mid-summer.

Double click to read more about the "Dependencies" of the household...

Gregory, Thomas Jefferson and Gregory's two dollar bill with Jefferson's image...

Date: November 21, 2009

From: Charlottesville,Virginia

To: Charlottesville,Virginia

Route:

Miles Today: 0 miles

TOTAL MILES: 3,577 miles

Top Speed on this trip: 54.1 mph

Weather: Sunny and warm

License Plates Collected: 5 Montana, 8 Wyoming (2 motorcycle) and 1 Idaho (found in WY), 2 Colorado, 1 Kansas (Gifted from David of Baldwin City), 1 Missouri (To be sent to Grammy’s by our new buddy, Kansas City firefighter Shawn), 1 Illinois, 4 Kentucky (2 Gifted from Beth and Garry Feltus, one gifted from cousin John, one from Hwy. 127), 1 Virginia

Flats: 11

Broken Spokes: 3

Cracked Rim: 1

Jeff was off early to make an initial dump run for his construction business and later Mike and Gregory decided to help him with one more run before we headed out to tour Jefferson's home of Monticello. Joey offered to have us join her on the University of Virginia campus, for a talk by one of her friends, but we were feeling content to just rest and hang out before we went out sight seeing later on in the day.

Joey left me some homemade oatmeal (believe me this is a treat when you've been eating it out of a packet for 4 months) and Mike made a nice strong pot of coffee with fresh ground beans in their french press. It was nice to have a really good cup of coffee for a change. We are all getting tired of eating out and really appreciate when we get a home cooked meal.

Gregory came in the door from the dump run and said, "We're back and we're starving." Then he informed me, "I lifted a ton of concrete blocks." "You did?" I asked. "Uhhhh, Yah!" he assured me. He is pretty proud of the muscles he has acquired on this trip!

Monticello was amazing and did not disappoint. I was so thrilled we had an opportunity to visit the home of our 3rd president and the author of the Declaration of Independence. Our tour guide pointed out that Jefferson wanted to be remembered for three things. On his grave he wanted it to say Author of the American Declaration of Independence (to acknowledge other declarations), of the Statute of Virginia for Religious Freedom and Father of the University of Virginia. Gregory found it interesting that Jefferson died 50 years to the day of the signing of the Declaration of Independence on July 4, 1826. Do you know what bill and what coin Jefferson's image is on?

We toured the house and found many features interesting including the built in alcoves for the beds including the 6 foot 3 inch space for Jefferson's bed (he was 6 feet 2 inches) that could be exited from one side of the bed to his study and the other side into his bedroom, the many octagons used in the construction including octagonal-shaped rooms, the dumb waiter used to bring wine and beer up from the cellar and a revolving door to deliver the food to the dining area and then provide privacy and to reduce gossip. Jefferson was very influenced by the five years he spent in France after his first wife died during childbirth and returned with many new ideas to incorporate at his estate. The artwork includes works of many important figures of the time including Benjamin Franklin and George Washington as well as family portraits.

Exploring the corridors below the main house where "the dependencies" were was more Gregory's speed. We saw the smokehouse, kitchen, beer and wine cellars, the privy and the ice house where ice from the river was brought in each winter and would last well into the summer. We also especially enjoyed Jefferson's enormous gardens. We smelled dill, sage, thyme, and rosemary and Gregory saw a few things he hasn't seen growing before including a cabbage, white eggplant and peanuts which he learned grow under the ground.

We visited Jefferson's grave site as we made our way down the path to the visitor's center and enjoyed a walk in the cool evening air. Gregory bought his collector pin (and a 4-color pen) at the store and then we had the pleasure of accompanying Jeff and Joey to an Open House for one of the homes Jeff recently completed. Visit his website at: latitude38llc.com if you'd like to read more about his designs. The home was warm and inviting with lots of young families bustling about. The owner was actually due with child #2 any minute! We couldn't believe they were hosting an open house! We felt honored to be part of such an intimate and special event.

Back at Jeff and Joey's home, and after a trip to the store, I whipped up some of my famous pesto pasta while Joey made a yummy salad and some garlic bread. We considered going out but I was happy to be able to cook and we had a relaxing evening.

Day 124 ~ The Cookie Lady

Arriving at Rockfish Gap Outfitters, Waynesboro, Virginia

Albert says, "Get Smart: Ride A Bike!"

Tom Garber from Rockfish Gap Outfitters offered us a ride back up onto our route. Thanks Tom!

The Cookie Lady had this singing and dancing Santa that Gregory enjoyed playing with.

June "The Cookie Lady" had binders and binders of Polaroid pictures she has taken of cyclists that have passed through her doors. She is really disappointed that they've stopped making her film.

Gregory and Mike check out all of the memorabilia in the Cookie Lady's bunkhouse. She has postcards from all over the world and a cabinet jammed full of letters too. She told us that wasn't even all of them.

This is the sign that June Curry "The Cookie Lady" painted the inaugural year. She told us she thought it would only last a year and 38 years later she is still hosting cyclists.

A picture of June and the cyclists in 1976.

Gregory gives June his fireman for her Christmas village.

Gregory's fireman gets a special place in the Christmas village modeled after 1920s Afton, Virginia.

We met Bear and Dexter and their owner Debra out in front of the Greenwood Country Store

Greenwood Country Store. I wish it wouldn't have been so late in the day. I would have loved to explore this store.

The climbing wall in Jeff and Joey's three story home.

Gregory and Sammy

Gregory tried to get Felipe to sleep with him but it didn't last long.

Date: November 20, 2009

From: Waynesboro,Virginia

To: Charlottesville,Virginia

Route: Hwy. 250 via truck out of Waynesboro, SR 6, CR 750, Hwy. 250 into Charlottesville

Miles Today: 27 miles

TOTAL MILES: 3,577 miles

Top Speed on this trip: 54.1 mph

Weather: Sunny and warm

License Plates Collected: 5 Montana, 8 Wyoming (2 motorcycle) and 1 Idaho (found in WY), 2 Colorado, 1 Kansas (Gifted from David of Baldwin City), 1 Missouri (To be sent to Grammy’s by our new buddy, Kansas City firefighter Shawn), 1 Illinois, 4 Kentucky (2 Gifted from Beth and Garry Feltus, one gifted from cousin John, one from Hwy. 127), 1 Virginia

Flats: 11

Broken Spokes: 3

Cracked Rim: 1

Today we had another chance to sleep in because we were offered a ride up the mountain out of Waynesboro and back up onto our route. Tom Garber of Rockfish Gap Outfitters met us around 10:30 A.M. at the store and took us up out of town. Gregory inquired as to whether Tom had pets and he showed Gregory a picture that he had on his phone of his two beagles. Gregory thinks he might like a beagle when we settle down but Mike and I keep telling him they are chewers, diggers and bark a lot. In fact, later in the day we met Debra out in front of the Greenwood Country Store Gallery & Shops and she was walking her beagle Dexter and her other dog Bear. Gregory asked, "Is Dexter a chewer?" Debra showed Gregory both leashes and confirmed that yes indeed he was a chewer. Mike said, "When you get grownup you can use your own money to buy a beagle!" Mike had a beagle growing up and knows from first had experience. You have to admit they are cute dogs! Debra also said something I just loved. When we were sharing our experience on the Blue Ridge Parkway she said, "Oh you mean the Blue Ridge Fogway?" That about sums up our day!

After Tom dropped us off we only had a short couple of downhill miles to June Curry's house. As I mentioned she is a legend on the trail and we just had to stop and meet her. We actually spent over three hours with June. She shared stories of Afton in the 1920s when she was growing up and told us all about the Christmas Village she put together that is a replica of the town at that time. We heard many stories about the cyclists who have passed through her doors and best yet the story of how the cyclists all came to her aid when they heard she'd had a stroke and couldn't afford to have in-home care while she was recovering. Checks and get well wishes came from all over the world. The bunkhouse is a sight to behold with 38 years of memorabilia including letters and postcards from the world over. She seemed especially touched by the small toy bicycle gifted to her by a 15-year old boy who had ridden all over the world. She explained that when they started the trip his mother said he could bring one toy and he decided to bring this toy bike. When he met June and saw the bunkhouse he decided that was where in belonged. They still had to cross America to return home to Portland, Oregon but the bike stayed with June and is hanging from the ceiling today.

It made me especially proud when my own son noticed that June's Christmas village didn't have a fireman and went and got his toy fireman out of his under-the-seat-bag and gave it to June for her village. She was tickled pink and put it right on top of the fire truck. Gregory was all smiles. He was so glad to make her happy and to make a contribution. Mike and I couldn't have been more thrilled.

June will be 89 years old on February 8, 2010 and she is still just as sharp as ever. She said her short term memory isn't so good but I can assure you her long term memory is just fine! She suffers with arthritis in her thumbs, pointer and middle fingers and we could tell this bothered her because it makes it difficult to pick things up and she said she is always dropping and breaking things. Though she's been through a lot in the past couple of years, with a stroke and broken bones caused by falls, she still maintains a positive attitude and continues serving the cycling community. She is an inspiration.

We left at around 2:30 P.M. with still over 25 miles to go. It was a beautiful sunny day and I was looking forward to the ride though my knees are still compromised. I wanted to stick to the route but after about 5 or so miles of the ups and downs of the back roads Mike made the decision to get back on Highway 250 that was more of a straight shot to Charlottesville. It wasn't without hills but they were longer and more gradual.

Lunch at Greenwood Grocery, a specialty grocery store with lots of high-end goodies, was really tasty. I had a tuna salad with capers on fresh baked sourdough and it was very flavorful. Mike enjoyed his favorite of hot pastrami and Gregory had Virginia ham and cheese. Now it was after 3:30 and we still had 20 miles to go. Mike doesn't like leaving that many miles that late in the day and he gets a bit antsy and wants to push on. When the grocery didn't have bathrooms and we had to make another stop a mile down the road at a gas station I could tell the tension was building. When he gets moody so do I and I was a bit snappy so we had a quiet ride into town. Later I apologized for my snappiness. I just get so frustrated when he gets moody and impatient.

We did finally make it into Charlottesville but it was a busy two lane highway with no shoulder and first we had the traffic from parents picking up their kids from school and then rush hour. It got especially congested when we got closer to the city and then making our way around the University of Virginia campus (founded by Thomas Jefferson). At one point we were stopped at a light and surrounded by cars and Gregory said something like, "This feels weird mom." I said, "I know. Do you feel like you are in a tin can?" "Yeh," came his reply. We just waved at the people in the cars parked right next to us and gave them a smile as we waited for the light to change. Mike did a great job of getting us through some tight spots and we arrived at the home of Jeff and Jody, our warmshowers hosts, before dark.

Jeff does construction and they have this amazing three story home that is modern and sleek in design with lots of cool features. We spent the first hour visiting with Joey and Jeff and getting to know the pets, Sammy the cat, and Felipe the chocolate lab. We eventually got settled in to our own second floor room, took showers and rested a bit before dinner.

Joey made her speciality, black bean burritos. The aroma of garlic and onions sauteing and fresh cut cilantro really piqued my excitement about dinner. The food was delicious and we also shared some Pinot Noir and local brew. Later in the evening as we shared stories of the road Gregory told one of his favorites about our friends in Jefferson City, Missouri who gave him a Lego set. When Jody heard that she sent Gregory upstairs and straight to a bike helmet box full of Legos. He was in heaven and he built with Legos well into the evening. Poor Jeff was doing his best at staying awake but kept nodding off. He'd worked all day at the job site and we knew he must be tired so we called it a day.

We are thrilled to have been invited to stay another day so they can take us to see Thomas Jefferson's home of Monticello (pronounced Monti-ch-ello). We said we'd love to but explained we had two more days of riding to get to Mechanicsville (outside of Richmond) and already booked Amtrak for Washington D.C. on Monday. Jeff generously offered to drive us however far we wanted so we could meet whatever deadlines we had. So, of course we accepted. I'm so thrilled that we will all get to experience Monticello. I have to admit I was a bit disappointed when it looked like we'd be so close and not get to see it. We didn't even have to ask. The generosity of others showed itself once again as we take this journey across America.

Day 123 ~ Wiped Out in Waynesboro

Here I am with a "Pain Relieving Hot Compress" on my left knee and an ice bag on my right knee. Mike alternated these about every 20 minutes. Bless their hearts, Mike and Gregory went out and picked up the compress at CVS and then Gregory got the ice from the machine. When he asked for bags at the front desk the attendant wouldn't give them to him until he told him, "They are for my mom's knees."

Gregory spent part of his day off building a fort for his friends. Ottie, Kitty and Moosy are pictured. Doggie is in the pillow fort up on the bed. Photo by Gregory

Gregory took this shot of me catching up on 5 days worth of blogs! Sorry to keep you all waiting. We were without Internet. Thank you for your emails, comments and concerns.

Gregory posed Doggie and took this photo of me making arrangements for the upcoming week.

Date: November 19, 2009

From: Waynesboro,Virginia

To: Waynesboro,Virginia

Route:

Miles Today: 0 miles

TOTAL MILES: 3,550 miles

Top Speed on this trip: 54.1 mph

Weather: RAIN

License Plates Collected: 5 Montana, 8 Wyoming (2 motorcycle) and 1 Idaho (found in WY), 2 Colorado, 1 Kansas (Gifted from David of Baldwin City), 1 Missouri (To be sent to Grammy’s by our new buddy, Kansas City firefighter Shawn), 1 Illinois, 4 Kentucky (2 Gifted from Beth and Garry Feltus, one gifted from cousin John, one from Hwy. 127), 1 Virginia

Flats: 11

Broken Spokes: 3

Cracked Rim: 1

Our day off has been heavenly. We ALL slept in until 9:00 A.M. which is the latest we've ever slept in on this trip! We took our time at the continental breakfast where we filled up on waffles, yogurt, cereal, toast, donuts, coffee and juice. Gregory watched Scooby Doo and Mike and I read U.S.A. Today and we finally wandered back to the room around 11:00 A.M. where Mike took a nap (the one and only he has taken this trip) and Gregory did his reading and then built a fort out of the bed pillows and cushions from the love seat. He also took a nice hot bath in the middle of the day. Woo hoo.

Mike was up until about 2:00 A.M. looking into accommodations for the Historic Triangle area (Williamsburg, Yorktown and Jamestown) where our trip ends. He and Gregory also spent some time looking at the website for Busch Gardens amusement park. We promised Gregory we'd take him there as a reward for finishing the trip and now we find that they are closed for the season! He is so bummed. Mike went as far as looking at options for Disney World in Orlando, Florida but discovered that a 4-night/5-day package with lodging and entrance to all of the parks would be $1,400 and that doesn't even include a flight or car rental to get down there. We ended up spending way more on lodging and food on this cross country journey than we expected and that expense just really isn't in the budget.

We will be able to show Gregory the Washington D.C area though. (Not quite as exciting to a 9-year old as Busch Gardens or Disney World but none the less…) I was able to get in touch with my University of Delaware roommate who now lives in Gaithersburg, Maryland about 40 minutes outside of D.C. via the Metro-Link. Liz generously offered to have us from Monday to Friday next week including Thanksgiving Day even though she is entertaining her in-laws as well. "The more the merrier," she said. We are so excited to stay with Liz and her husband and their three kids. Their son is 11 years old and their girls are 7 and 5. Liz told me to assure Gregory there were plenty of bikes and scooters to ride in the cul de sac, a basketball court, lots of toys and a Wii. The kids will be in school Monday to Wednesday but those are the days we plan to explore Washington D.C. and we'll have the evenings and all day Thursday to visit.

On Sunday night we have also been blessed to have a place to stay with family just north of Richmond in Mechanicsville which just happens to be on the route. Penny is Mike's cousin Megan's sister-in-law and she and her husband Keith have generously offered to let us stay Sunday night, transport us to the Amtrak station early Monday morning for our trip into D.C. and store the bike at their home. We will be back with them on Friday, November 27th when Liz drops us on our her way down to visit family in Virginia Beach. We feel so lucky that everyone has been so accommodating and gone out of their way to help us.

Beyond that we haven't quite figured out when we will depart for Williamsburg and when we will finally culminate our trip in Yorktown but it will be shortly thereafter. In the short term, tomorrow (Friday) we will visit "The Cookie Lady" and will be staying with Jeff Erkelens, a warmshowers.org host in Charlottesville and then will stay in Louisa Saturday night. Thank you to all of you that have called or emailed with concerns for our welfare. We've been without Internet for several days so I've been unable to post. I appreciate all of you loyal followers and concerned friends!

Day 122 ~ Pea Soup on the Parkway

Breakfast was at the Elvis-themed Pink Cadillac Diner. Here Gregory poses with an enormous pink flamingo. They had Pink Panther also.

Mike and Gregory leaving the Pink Cadillac Diner with King Kong in the background.

Gregory and King Kong

Saying goodbye to our new friend John.

We're off and ready for a foggy day on the Blue Ridge Parkway

At our jumping off spot we could barely read this sign. Big Sky Mtn. Overlook Elev. ???

Heading Out

Nice Visibility! Ha!

What View?

View Fork Mountain

Ice on Gregory's fleece pants. He didn't want to wear his rain pants because he doesn't like the sound of them. To him it's like nails on a chalkboard. Oh, if it is raining he will wear them but he doesn't like it. Ditto on the rain jacket. Today he was wearing long underwear, jersey, two fleece jackets and his rain jacket.

We had quite the 400 foot climb to this overlook that was the highest point of our day. Each pedal stroke was a new test of my pain tolerance. My left leg was definitely doing most of the work and Mike and Gregory had to take up the slack.

We met these National Park Service workers as they were coming off a tree cutting job. They filled us in on where to go in Waynesboro tonight. The dinner recommendation of "Chickpeas" was an excellent one. I had a curried chicken kebab, saffron rice and a Greek salad. Delicious!

What are the chances we'd get a group shot up on the Blue Ridge Parkway today?

28 miles of riding in dense fog and 30 degree temperatures does this to a girl. Photo by Mike

Definitely Disturbed

Wiped Out By The Weather

Daddy as seen by Gregory through his feet.

I love this pillow! I'm having sweet downhill dreams tonight. Photo by Gregory

Kitty, Doggie and Ottie's House by Gregory

Date: November 18, 2009

From: Buchanan,Virginia (pronounced Buck-an-an)

To: Waynesboro,Virginia

Route: Truck Ride to Whetstone Ridge where Hwy. 56 joins the Blue Ridge Parkway (BRP) then a 28 mile ride up to the Northern End of the BRP at Rockfish Gap then Hwy. 250 - 4 miles into Waynesboro

Miles Today: 32 miles

TOTAL MILES: 3,550 miles

Top Speed on this trip: 54.1 mph

Weather: FOGGY, COLD, DAMP

License Plates Collected: 5 Montana, 8 Wyoming (2 motorcycle) and 1 Idaho (found in WY), 2 Colorado, 1 Kansas (Gifted from David of Baldwin City), 1 Missouri (To be sent to Grammy’s by our new buddy, Kansas City firefighter Shawn), 1 Illinois, 4 Kentucky (2 Gifted from Beth and Garry Feltus, one gifted from cousin John, one from Hwy. 127), 1 Virginia

Flats: 11

Broken Spokes: 3

Cracked Rim: 1

"I feel like the Tin Man. I have hypothermia. The snot in my right nostril is frozen into an icicle and I need a pick to get it out!" shouted Mike as we made our final long descent down off the parkway. He turned his head and I could see the water dripping off the end of his nose… We were all in stitches and couldn't stop busting up laughing as we continued to fly down the mountain in fog as thick as pea soup.

I'm so thankful for John Mays of Twin River Outfitters canoe livery and the Historic James House who saved my knees by giving us a ride up to the Blue Ridge Parkway! It would have taken us two days to make this trek and we'd have been camping in the rain with no services. As it was the parkway was socked in with fog and it was a very eerie experience riding up there. At the worst our visibility was about 40 feet. It was like riding in a white out. All we could see was the blurred edges of the trees closest to us on the side of the road. We joked that we were going to create a coffee table book of the scenic overlooks on the Blue Ridge Parkway as seen on this day! We took pictures in front of a couple of the signs but that was as far as we could see. On a good day the views are supposedly spectacular. In the spring the flame azaleas, mountain laurel, purple catawba rhododendron, tulip trees and serviceberry show their blooms. "In the fall, leaves burst into color. Dogwood, sourwood, and blackgum turn deep red. Tulip trees and birches turn yellow, sassafras a vivid orange, and red maples add a multicolored brilliance. Berries of the mountain ash turn bright red and provide food for wintering birds. Oaks put on a dash of russet and maroon. Evergreens include Virginia pine, white pine, hemlock, spruce and fir." (National Park Service Brochure) We'll just have to come back again…

"The parkway follows the Appalachian Mountain chain and provides seemingly endless views of parallel ranges connected by cross ranges and scattered hills. From Shenandoah National Park the parkway follows the Blue Ridge, eastern rampart of the Appalachians, for 355 miles. Then, for the remaining 114 miles, it skirts the southern end of the massive Black Mountains, named for the dark green spruce and fir that cover them, weaves through the Craggies, the Pisgahs, the Balsams, and ends in the Great Smokies." (National Park Service Brochure)

All morning long we had to make a gazillion stops to wipe off glasses, make adjustments to gloves and clothing, etc. Mike blocks the worst of the wind and weather and we knew Mike's hands, not to mention his face had to be freezing on that last downhill. You see, not far into the morning and after several stops trying to get Gregory's hands warm, Mike remembered that we had a couple of sets of Toe Warmers in our red bag. We've been carrying these since Lander, Wyoming where our cycling friend Devon gave them to us as she ended her trip. Mike dug these out and Gregory and I had toasty hands from there on out. The heat seemed to increase the longer we had them on (they have a life of 8 hours) and at one point, when we were stopped and visiting with some park employees who were at the end of their morning of cutting down dead trees, Gregory commented, "My hands are on fire!" The first part of the day was tough on Gregory but once his hands were toasty he did awesome for the rest of the day despite the miserable cold and damp conditions. Though it wasn't raining the damp from the fog had us pretty wet. Frost formed on the front of our tights and Gregory's fleece pants and water dripped from our helmet visors and noses.

Just before John dropped us off on the parkway we stopped at a ranger station and you could tell that the ranger wasn't too keen on us being out in that fog. He mentioned that flashing lights can be seen better than a solid beam and we assured him that we had flashing lights on both the front and back of the bike as well as reflectors on our panniers and jackets. He mentioned that in the past he did have to stop a group of touring cyclists from continuing on the parkway due to fog and they were not happy about it. He said if anyone stopped in he would let them know we were out there and he let us be on our way so he must have felt with the light traffic we would be O.K. In fact we only had about 8 vehicles pass us in the entire 28 miles and I spotted or heard all but one of them before they were on our tail. There was one truck that snuck up on me but fortunately for us he saw us and slowed until we safely waved him around. The oncoming traffic seemed heavier for whatever reason but still wasn't more than a dozen cars.

We came off of our route to Waynesboro rather than trying to push on and ride to Charolettesville tonight. We also knew we wanted to stop in at Afton and spend some time with June Curry, aka "The Cookie Lady" who is a trail legend. After contacting her we found that she is no longer hosting cyclists this late in the season but said we could stop by and see all of the memorabilia in the bunkhouse. Back in the inaugural year of 1976 she put a hose out for cyclists and for years she has offered fresh baked cookies and lodging. Now she is getting on in years and offers store bought cookies but is still a bright spot to many TransAm riders. We will see her day after tomorrow as we have decided to take a day off. There is an 80 percent chance of rain and my knees need a break.

As we entered Waynesboro we were told to stop in at Rockfish Gap Outfitters which is a marvelous outdoor store. We were chilled to the bone and received a warm greeting both literally and figuratively when we entered the store. Rich, Manager/Buyer and Chuck, the Owner, gave us a hearty greeting and within minutes I was holding a warm cup of fresh brewed coffee. Bliss! We ended up spending a good amount of time there and left in the dark to ride the couple of miles into town for lodging. Again, not the brightest idea but we were enjoying the warmth, the company and the products! Before we left, employee Tom Garber gave us a list of Road Angels that offer volunteer transport from Waynesboro back up to Rockfish Gap (or vice versa for the Appalachian Trail Hikers). Tom also offered to give us a lift day after tomorrow when he comes to town to pick up his check. Hurray! Again, my knees are ever so thankful as the 4 miles to Waynesboro was a screaming downhill.