Day 112 ~ Coal Country

Saying goodbye to Linda's B & B in Booneville, KY

CHEW MAIL POUCH TOBACCO

Resting after Mommy's little episode

I had the MOUNTAIN MAN SPECIAL for lunch today.

Log Cathedral in Buckhorn

Gregory makes another kitty friend as we talk to Sonny about how the "tree huggers" are trying to stop mountain top removal...

This little guy wants to come along.

Mountain Top Removal

Mike and Gregory make friends with Blackjack this coal community dog.

Can you spell relief? J-A-C-U-Z-Z-I

Date: November 8, 2009

From: Booneville, Kentucky ~ Linda's Victorian B & B

To: Hazard, Kentucky

Route: Hwy. 28 to Hwy. 15

Miles Today: 46 miles

TOTAL MILES: 3,201 miles

Top Speed on this trip: 54.1 mph

Weather: 70s and Sunny ~ More Shorts Weather

License Plates Collected: 5 Montana, 8 Wyoming (2 motorcycle) and 1 Idaho (found in WY), 2 Colorado, 1 Kansas (Gifted from David of Baldwin City), 1 Missouri (To be sent to Grammy’s by our new buddy, Kansas City firefighter Shawn), 1 Illinois, 4 Kentucky (2 Gifted from Beth and Garry Feltus, one gifted from cousin John, one from Hwy. 127)

Flats: 9

Broken Spokes: 3

Cracked Rim: 1

"COAL. IT KEEPS THE LIGHTS ON" is on bumper stickers, signs, etc. It is the message they want to convey around these parts. Coal is one of the main industries in Kentucky. We were talking to Sonny, a local we happened to meet on the side of the road as we stopped in front of his parent's little store and one pump gas station, and he didn't seem too pleased that the "tree huggers" were fighting against mountain top removal. (Coal mining often removes the top of entire mountains.) He claimed his county was one of the poorest in Kentucky (we've heard this claim about other counties also…) and that without coal mining these folks would have nothing. As it is there are already a lot of drugs and crime in the area and he worried about what would happen without the coal. He said he wouldn't venture into the woods to go coon hunting for fear of stepping foot in someone's trap they'd set to protect their property.

As I rode along today I kept thinking about the movie "Coal Miner's Daughter." This is the life story of Loretta Lynn who came from the Kentucky backwoods (Butcher Holler) to the Grand Ole Opry Stage. Sissy Spacek does an excellent job portraying Loretta as does Tommy Lee Jones who plays her husband, Doolittle Lynn or "Doo". If you haven't seen it you should rent it.

We were told that we were lucky to be riding this road today, Sunday, because the coal trucks weren't running. Thank goodness because next to yesterday this was one of my toughest riding days yet. (Maybe it is just because it is in the present and the most vivid but I'm telling you I wasn't sure I was going to make it today.) I think these hills of Kentucky may do me in. It is my back. I'm fine riding up the smaller grades all day long but when I have to push big grades all day my back really takes a beating. Besides I think I'm just totally exhausted from working so hard all day long. Mike and I agreed that I should go to bed early and skip the blog until this morning. Gregory and I went to bed around 9:00 P.M. while Mike collected laundry and chatted with a local about upcoming routes, but when he returned to the room I was still awake. You know that commercial about "restless leg syndrome" well I had "restless lower body syndrome." Mike had to give me a massage so I could relax enough to get some rest. I'd also spoken with my mom earlier about my uncle's memorial that was today so I had "home" on my mind.

Also disconcerting was a little episode I had this morning. I'm guessing we were about 15-20 miles into the ride when my arms started to feel really weak, almost like Jello, and my head started to shake uncontrollably. It was like bobbing up and down and Gregory said he could even see it. I said to Mike, "Something is wrong with me." He pulled the bike over and leaned it against the guard rail as I got off and started crying and trying to stop the shaking. I sat on the guard rail for some time collecting myself and decided I should eat and drink something. All I can figure is that my blood sugars took a major dip thus producing the shakes. I am diabetic but it is controlled with diet and exercise and I can usually tell when I need to eat something so get it taken care of before I get to this point. This was the first time I've had this happen on the trip. The food and water did the trick but between that little episode and the back pain I was seriously doubting my ability to make it to our destination. Mike decided we should stop more often during the climbs and take time to stretch and regroup. It did the trick but was frustrating because we were back to the technique we had to use to climb Lolo Pass earlier in the trip. I kept beating myself up about having to stop so often because I know if I'd felt better we could do these hills without stopping but they are just brutal. This is going to be the toughest part of our trip and there is a lot more climbing before we get over the highest point in the Appalachians and then we still have to get over the Blue Ridge Mountains!

We talked to our cycling friend Brian who finished the Trans Am on his birthday, November 7th. We'd left our personal version of "Happy Birthday" on his iPhone and he was getting back to us. He loved it by the way and said that he was definitely keeping that! Brian is the guy who was riding up a 17 percent grade and then looping back down again to ride alongside of us as we inched up the grade. He even admitted that the section climbing up to the Blue Ridge Parkway was tough for him. Knowing I was having back issues his words were, "You guys might want to find a different route or stop half way up in the town of Love." Oh, I'm really looking forward to that! The good news is that once we conquer that it is all downhill to Yorktown!

The last 14 miles of our whopping 46 mile day (which felt like 100 miles!) was on a four lane highway. All I can say is hills and traffic don't mix. We thought we'd have to go 3 miles off route to stay in the town of Hazard (Are you thinking of the T.V. series Dukes of Hazard?) but fortunately only a half mile off route we saw a Hampton Inn & Suites. The bike steered itself right into the parking lot. We decided this was our 3,000 mile splurge (We are actually at 3, 201 miles) and we plopped down the credit card. There was no way we were pedaling another mile. We enjoyed a nice hot jacuzzi and pool though the heat almost did me in and I barely made the walk across the parking lot to Applebees for dinner. I had no appetite but knew I needed to eat. After forcing down a dinner salad and several glasses of water with lemon I started to come alive again. Mike ordered another salad for me and I finished about half of that also. I know you're thinking that girl needs some carbs but I just couldn't eat anything else and the whole carb thing is a balancing game for me with the diabetes. In my regular life it is 50 carbs per meal and 25 carbs for a snack. I don't have it to a science out here but so far whatever I'm doing is working, except for this morning that is!

Day 111 ~ Wrong Turn

Leaving Weaver's Bottom Studio and the Morning Glory B & B in Berea, Kentucky. Thanks Neil and Mary!

Another quilt square on the Barn Quilt Tour.

Tobacco drying.

This is the 15 percent downhill we enjoyed until we realized we'd made a wrong turn and had to ride back up it!

Gregory found a friend at our bridge lunch stop. It's a good thing because Mike still wasn't talking after our wrong turn mishap.

Leaves blanket the ground as the trees stand bare.

Stretching. Yes, this is right side up.

Can you tell we've done some climbing? We are overlooking the mountain tops now.

Is Mike showing off his muscle or waving to the car that is coming around the bend? Neither is my guess...

Some friendly dogs come out to greet Mike and Gregory at the four way stop in Vincent as I get this picture of one of the original 1976 Bikecentennial signs.

Date: November 7, 2009

From: Berea, Kentucky~ the Folk Arts and Craft Capital of Kentucky

To: Booneville, Kentucky

Route: Trans Am Trail and a 10 mile oops! off route

Miles Today: 65 miles

TOTAL MILES: 3,155 miles

Top Speed on this trip: 54.1 mph

Weather: 70s and Sunny but windy ~ Shorts Weather in November!

License Plates Collected: 5 Montana, 8 Wyoming (2 motorcycle) and 1 Idaho (found in WY), 2 Colorado, 1 Kansas (Gifted from David of Baldwin City), 1 Missouri (To be sent to Grammy’s by our new buddy, Kansas City firefighter Shawn), 1 Illinois, 4 Kentucky (2 Gifted from Beth and Garry Feltus, one gifted from cousin John, one from Hwy. 127)

Flats: 9

Broken Spokes: 3

Cracked Rim: 1

One wrong turn a happy boy does not make. About 13 miles out of Berea Mike told Gregory to let him know when we got to 23 miles. This would be our next turn at mile marker #9 Murphy's Ford Road. The only problem is Mike didn't announce the mile marker or road name to us and we were past 23 miles (almost 26 miles) and it was too late. The road came to a "Y" and we turned left giving us an awesome downhill. "Wheeee…" rang out across the Kentucky hills as we sailed down this 15 percent grade. At the bottom Mike asks Gregory, "How many miles Greg?" "Twenty-six Dad," says Gregory. Oh I could see the steam coming from Mike's ears. My first thought was well why didn't you ask him before we sailed down this enormous hill! Later, after almost a whole day of silence, Mike admitted that he had set his computer and checked it before going down the hill. The reading seemed logical but in actuality the computer had shut off at some point. This is why we rely on Gregory's Cat Eye computer for mileage and just use Mike's, which has the bubble indicators, for shifting.

Anyhow, after we realized we'd gone about 3 miles past our turnoff we continued on to the next intersection hoping we could somehow get back on our route without back tracking. That turn lead to one more turn and before we knew it we'd gone 5 miles off route. When we reached the second intersection we met a nice couple working a "Flea Market" they had set up in what looked like a defunct grocery store. They weren't much help but another fellow who was passing by talked to Mike for some time (while Gregory poked around the flea market and I held up the bike) and they finally determined that we had to go back the way we came. Ugh. Like the flea market owner said, "You can't get there from here." Talk about frustrating.

As we were getting ready to pull out our "directions man" with his ring of tobacco juice around his mouth, well meaning enough says, "You're on mountain roads now with mountain people so you all be careful now you here." I don't know about you but that got all kinds of crazy things racing through my head. What exactly did he mean by that I thought to myself. On top of everything else that was going on today I didn't need to be worrying about some mountain man from Appalachia coming out in the road to hunt down some bicyclists.

All day I felt bad for Mike knowing he was probably beating himself up for not checking the mileage prior to that huge downhill. In the meantime I was wishing I'd checked in with Gregory a couple of times after his dad had asked him to watch the computer. To be honest I wasn't thinking about that 23 mile mark at all. I was just enjoying the glorious weather and pleasant riding conditions. I told Mike to not be too hard on Gregory and asked why he didn't check before the downhill and I'm sure that had a lot to do with the fact that he didn't talk at all for most of the rest of the day. Believe me that makes for a lot of tension. Gregory was feeling bad for letting his dad down and felt like it was all his fault and Mike was mad at himself and just exasperated at the whole situation. It was almost 1:00 P.M. when we started to back track and we must have ridden another 10 miles or so before I dared ask if we could stop and make some sandwiches. We sat on a bridge and ate lunch in silence. The setting was actually quite pretty and I would have enjoyed lunch if it wouldn't have been for the silence and for the flies (from the cows grazing nearby) that kept trying to land on our sandwiches.

The first part of the day was really terrific before our little mishap. We left the B & B and headed across town to College Square thinking we'd try something different for breakfast. While Mike stayed outside with the bike, I checked in at Berea Coffee and Tea to see if they served breakfast. While at the counter checking with our server I hear, "Hi Dorrie." It made me jump at little because I thought who here could possibly know my name? It turned out to be Glen, our forester friend who also played with his band "The Sundogs" at the Black Feather last night! He was joined by Brett who I recognized as the guy who was tearing up the dance floor last night. Brett is actually the one who made our scrumptious artisan pizza with green beans provided from his garden. We joined them for breakfast and had a great time visiting with them well into the morning.

On the way out of town we stopped at Warren May's dulcimer workshop so Gregory could play the dulcimer again and so we could show him our bike. We also grabbed Kathy from The Promenade Gallery across the street to bring her out to see the bike. We talked with her for a good long time yesterday and she was very interested in our adventure. Once on the road it didn't take long for us to peel off all of our layers. It was an incredibly warm 70+ degrees, which is amazing for November 7th, and we cycled in shorts and short sleeves for the first time in ages. It was windy and at various times throughout the day we had a tailwind, crosswind or headwind. On the plus side the wind sent a cascade of fall leaves fluttering down upon us and this was really lovely and relaxing but then out of nowhere, "Ouch," I'd hear myself say as I was getting pelted in the face by a sharp twig or leaf.

As we rode along I thought to myself that today I can write that… the rolling hills made for nice riding and that none of the hills were daunting. That was before we back tracked adding 10 miles to what was going to be an already long day and also before we started climbing up, up and up for what seemed like hours. The climbing seemed it would never end and I was making some serious noise as I concentrated on putting every ounce of power I had into each pedal stroke while at the same time focusing on my breathing. Each time we'd crest a hill and see the inevitable next hill I kept waiting for Mike to give his usual, "Good job team." But, I got nothing and started to stew about this. Finally I decided if Gregory and Mike weren't going to talk I was going to have to be the cheerleader. I started congratulating us on each climb. Finally, when we stopped for a rest I said to Mike, "Why can't you get past this and have a good day?" "I don't know," he replied. I couldn't say much to that because I've been there. Sometimes it just takes time and you yourself don't even know how long that will be. When Mike finally did say something it was, "Stop bouncing please." Well, at least he said please.

I thought the day would never end and I did get to my breaking point. Mike was pushing us onward all day with only a couple of brief stops because we'd gotten a late start and our detour put us behind. I know he was worried about getting in before dark. Each hill got harder and harder for me and I started to whimper a bit between my grunts and heavy breathing. Mike finally said, "Do you need a break?" and stopped the bike. I almost fell off the bike and my whimper almost became a wail but I managed to stay composed knowing if I started to fall apart so would Gregory. We had over 15 miles still to go. I honestly don't know how I found what it took to finish the day. We had a couple more nasty climbs with one at about 15 percent. I was almost in a trance climbing that one just staring at the stem of my bike and concentrating on my muscles pushing those pedals ever so slowly around. There was nothing else in my world at that point, only my stem and my pedals. To top things off I had no water left and only a dribble of warm Powerade Zero. Knowing you don't have anything to drink makes you thirstier than ever.

As we came to the four way stop for the town of Vincent I distracted myself by making the guys pose for a picture by one of the original Bikecentennial 76 signs for our route. Two dogs from the corner house decided to come out and greet us. They were actually friendly but a little mangy and I asked Gregory not to pet them. Mike shooed them away and when he crossed the road in the wrong direction I quickly said, "But Booneville is the other way!" He was only seeing if the building across the way was a store. It was, but only a closed craft store. It was then that he decided to call Linda at her B & B. Yes, she had room for us and her place was only 5 more miles. She would drive us the additional 3 miles into Boonville to get groceries. Music to my ears. "Please let there be no more dogs or hills," I said. There was no such luck. We had more of both. Today we had LOTS of dogs and lately, Mike has taken up a new technique of steering the bike right at the dog if he gets out in front of us. It works pretty well because the dog feels like he is under attack and backs off. Slowing down and talking to them in a normal tone seems to work well also and if all else fails we got back to yelling, "STAY!"

Linda set us up in her separate guest house complete with a kitchen and I made a huge batch of spaghetti with sausages and a whole basket of fresh mushrooms. I haven't been that hungry in a long time and I devoured a humongous portion of pasta. The boys watched the end of the Ohio State game and I took a hot heavenly shower.

The excitement of the evening was a large wasp that decided he'd sit down right by my shoulder while I was typing away in bed. Gregory spotted it from his bed across the room and even though Mike killed the wasp poor Gregory could not get to sleep after that. He ended up moving to another room. This was a surprise because he usually wants to be as close to us as possible.

Just now (with only the computer screen illuminating this room) I had a ladybug land on my eyeglasses and I've had one crawling across my computer screen for the last 15 minutes. They are everywhere in the house. It seems to be some sort of ladybug infestation! I think I'll shut down the computer now because they are flying all around me. Luck be a ladybug tonight!

Day 110 ~ Kentucky Artisans

Gregory meets Dusty outside the Black Feather Cafe. Dusty belongs to Steve Hosfeld, a local jeweler specializing in Kentucky agate.

This is red and black banded Kentucky agate. (See below to see the bands.) Steve Hosfeld, owner of Hosfeld's Jewelry, is behind Gregory and he kindly gave Gregory a small sample of this rare agate for Gregory's rock collection.

Red and Black Banded Kentucky Agate. This is the side cut by a diamond blade saw. Diamonds are the hardest rock therefore can cut other rocks.

"Help a T-Rex is after me!"

The Geology Museum at Berea College

There were lots of amazing rock specimens, artifacts and fossils at the Berea College Geology Museum.

Alice Hooker, at the Berea College Science Hall, explains to Gregory about how the earth rotates around the sun. Mike is the sun in this scenario. Gregory, the earth, is facing the sun so it is currently daytime. As he twirls around and his back is to his dad (The Sun), then it will be night. Meanwhile, Gregory Earth is also rotating around the sun as he spins on his axis...

The Foulcault Pendulum is a direct demonstration that the Earth rotates. Note the penny below the pendulum and read about it below in the blog.

Gregory gets to play the Dulcimer a beautiful stringed instrument handcrafted here in Berea by Warren May. This dark wood is walnut and the one in the foreground is made from cherry wood.

An absolutely glorious day with temperatures in the 70s.

Shorts Weather...Here Mike and Gregory are walking through the Berea College campus.

Gregory makes another kitty friend. This is Lesa Gieringer of Powdermill Pottery.

Date: November 6, 2009

From: Berea, Kentucky~ the Folk Arts and Craft Capital of Kentucky

To: Berea, Kentucky

Route:

Miles Today: 0 miles

TOTAL MILES: 3,090 miles

Top Speed on this trip: 54.1 mph

Weather: 70s and Sunny~Shorts Weather in November!

License Plates Collected: 5 Montana, 8 Wyoming (2 motorcycle) and 1 Idaho (found in WY), 2 Colorado, 1 Kansas (Gifted from David of Baldwin City), 1 Missouri (To be sent to Grammy’s by our new buddy, Kansas City firefighter Shawn), 1 Illinois, 4 Kentucky (2 Gifted from Beth and Garry Feltus, one gifted from cousin John, one from Hwy. 127)

Flats: 9

Broken Spokes: 3

Cracked Rim: 1

We started our morning back across the street at the Black Feather Cafe. As we were leaving last night someone was raving about the egg, ham and cheese biscuits they served there and the Black Feather didn't disappoint. The coffee was excellent too. At breakfast we met Glenn, an assistant forester, who told us we'd be riding through some beautiful country coming up as we head into the Cumberland Gap. He wanted to hear all about our adventure and invited us to come back this evening at 7 P.M. to listen to him play with his band "The Sundogs." We did just that and also had some incredible autumnal chicken pot pie pizza made with local produce. I overheard a gentleman there say that the green beans came out of his garden.

Outside the cafe door we first met Dusty, the yellow lab, and then we met his owner Steve Hosfeld who just happened to own Hosfeld's Jewelry around the corner. I don't know how we got on the subject of lapidary but we were soon telling him about my grandparents who were lapidrists and how Gregory and I have a love of rocks and minerals. We started talking about agates and soon we were in his jewelry shop looking at some rare red and black banded Kentucky agate. He even gave Gregory a small piece for his collection as well as a fire agate and a piece of amber. His hospitality didn't stop there as he made a call and put us in touch with Alice Hooker at Berea College. She said she would gladly open the Geology Museum for us to have a private tour!!

The museum was incredible to say the least. We saw more Kentucky agate and lots of Fluorite like we'd discovered back in Hardin County in Illinois. There were Indian artifacts and fossils and all kinds of rocks and minerals. They even had a T-Rex and a Triceratops skull. I think Gregory impressed Alice with his knowledge of herbivores (plant eaters with grinding teeth), carnivores (meat eaters with cutting teeth) and omnivores (like we humans who eat both plants and animals). He also told her the three types of rocks and was able to identify quite a few specimens. Gregory got to check out a seismograph, an instrument that measures and records details of earthquakes, such as force and duration. He was able to jump up and down creating seismographic activity that was recorded and projected on the computer screen right before our eyes. He was able to make the needle jump up and down just by standing in one place and hopping.

Before Alice took us to the Geology Museum she explained to us about how the earth rotates around the sun and is always moving. (Mike got to be the sun while Gregory twirled around him as the Earth.) Then she placed a penny under the The Foucault Pendulum that they have in the Science Hall and told us that when we got back from the museum we could see where the penny was in relation to the movement of the pendulum. Sure enough, though the pendulum was still swinging in the same place, it was no longer swinging directly over the penny. It appeared that the penny or pendulum had moved though neither had. The Foulcault Pendulum is a direct demonstration that the Earth rotates. The Earth had moved over the hour or so we were in the museum, not the penny or pendulum!! It was very interesting.

We thanked Alice and headed over to College Square where we had a delicious lunch at the Main Street Cafe. My Greek salad was fabulous but the bites I had of Mike's chocolate peanut butter pie afterward were decadent. We spent hours browsing the Appalachian Arts & Crafts shops and especially enjoyed a visit with Warren May who is a woodworker specializing in Dulcimers. The dulcimer is a beautiful stringed instrument typically made out of walnut, cherry or poplar (which was the original choice of the mountain dulcimer craftsman). Warren showed Gregory his special "tick-tock" method of playing the instrument (tick-tock like your heart) and then he gave Gregory a pick and they played a tune together. The whole shop gave a round of applause and Gregory was beaming. Later tonight when I played my recording back on the computer he said, "I know that song. It is Grandfather's Clock." At first I really didn't believe him but he sang the words to me and I realized he'd learned it from his music teacher Mr. Gronseth back at Pondersosa Elementary School in Paradise, California. That warmed my heart and made me thankful for great teachers like Mr. Gronseth.

We wandered back over to Old Town where we are staying above Weaver's Bottom Studio owned by Neil and Mary Colmer. We explored a few more shops including Powdermill Pottery where we met Jeff and Lisa Gieringer and where Gregory met yet another kitty friend. While Gregory played with the kitty we visited with Jeff and Lisa and looked at their beautiful pottery. Lisa invited us to come watch her work tomorrow but we had to decline since we'd already taken today off and must head east and take advantage of this beautiful weather. (Did I mention that Gregory and Mike wore shorts and short sleeves today? It was probably around 70 degrees!) Unfortunately I had to hurry us along because it was approaching 6 P.M. and I wanted to return to Top Drawer Gallery across from Weaver's Bottom to purchase and ship a couple of Christmas gifts.

Mike continued to visit and I once again gently explained that we were trying to make a purchase before closing. I tell you this because when we got to Top Drawer Gallery at 5:30 P.M. the lights were being turned out and the door was locked. I was really disappointed and as you can imagine pretty upset with Mike. So, not wanting to explode or cry, I just turned around and went across the street to sit on the porch of our B & B. Lucky for all of us Mike thought to try to catch Jerilu, the Gallery Manager, on her way out the back door. Gregory ran over to her and came back to tell us she would let us in the back and that we could make our purchases. If Jerilu hadn't have been so kind and accommodating Mike would have never heard the end of it. I'd seen the item I wanted the night before and had been thinking about it all day while we checked out all of the shops to see what was available. Waiting until the last minute was not the best idea but it all worked out in the end.

Berea is a very inspiring place especially if you have artistic tendencies such as I do. Looking at all of the outstanding arts and crafts in this area really made me appreciate all of the amazing artists in the Chico and Paradise, California communities back where we used to live. It really made me want to get busy and create something beautiful to share with others. Everyone we met today really brought a good feeling to my heart. Those are the types of people I want to surround myself, people who love life and are busy living it to the fullest. I read a poster the other day with a quote by Lance Armstrong that said something to the effect that he only had good days and great days now. Well, he beat cancer and so as you can imagine there is no such thing as a bad day for him. Wouldn't it be grand if everyone looked at life as good days or great days? The world would be a happier place.

Day 109 ~ Berea Beginning

Our hostess, Joni Morgan waves goodbye from her porch as we set off.

A quick stop to say farewell to our new friend Ernst, owner of Danville Bike and Footwear.

Gregory and Mike both had fun with this little Phineas and Ferb rocket that came with Gregory's Subway kids meal.

Beautiful Berries

Gregory watches Neil weave on his loom.

Gregory checking out the interesting pull toy ornaments that line the hallway of the Morning Glory B & B in Berea, Kentucky.

Date: November 5, 2009

From: Danville, Kentucky

To: Berea, Kentucky ~ the Folk Arts and Craft Capital of Kentucky

Route: Hwy. 52 and Hwy. 21

Miles Today: 37 miles

TOTAL MILES: 3,090 miles

Top Speed on this trip: 54.1 mph

Weather: 50s and Sunny

License Plates Collected: 5 Montana, 8 Wyoming (2 motorcycle) and 1 Idaho (found in WY), 2 Colorado, 1 Kansas (Gifted from David of Baldwin City), 1 Missouri (To be sent to Grammy’s by our new buddy, Kansas City firefighter Shawn), 1 Illinois, 4 Kentucky (2 Gifted from Beth and Garry Feltus, one gifted from cousin John, one from Hwy. 127)

Flats: 9

Broken Spokes: 3

Cracked Rim: 1

Quote of the Day: Aspire to inspire before you expire. This was posted on a church sign board and just caught my eye. I hope that our trip will inspire someone, somewhere. Whether that inspiration is just to start riding the bike more or to make a major move and follow a dream, I'd like to think we inspired someone during our time here on earth…

As Gregory was waking up this morning he said, "I had a good wake up call." "Why?" I asked. "I woke up about an hour ago and I saw the orange sky out the window and the birds were chittering…" I just love Gregory's appreciation of nature and all things beautiful in this amazing world we live in.

Fortunately we had time to visit with our hosts Mark and Joni before Mark set off to work. Mark took quite a bit of time with Gregory pointing out the various birds flocking to their feeder and bird bath just outside the sliding glass door. "You'll have to make a bird watcher out of this one," Mark commented. "He already is one," I replied. Though our stay was brief it was an especially nice one and we wished we'd have had more time with these nice people. In town we stopped at Danville Bike and Footwear to thank Ernst once again for his help in connecting us with the Morgans and to wish him farewell We knew it would be a short day today so it was nice to just take our time and enjoy our ride. We did have a bit of traffic and at times there was no shoulder so I had to call a steady stream of cars and trucks a good portion of the day.

After only 15 miles we came to Lancaster and stopped at Subway for lunch. Those gift cards were just burning a hole in our pockets. I didn't think I was hungry but we knew this would be the only place to eat before Berea so I force myself to eat something. The food actually did a lot to boost my energy and for the boys too. Gregory got a little toy with his meal and Gregory and Mike were like two little kids shooting off this Phineas and Ferb rocket and trying to see who could catch it first. That is where the goofy antics started and it continued on the bike.

There was a lot of wobbling going on and Mike kept accusing Gregory and I of sending the bike across the judder bars (those crosswise ridges on roadside shoulder that keep you from driving off the embankment when you fall asleep). In actuality we all had something to do with it. We had to finally put an end to the silliness because the traffic increased and there's no messing with traffic. Though on some roads we had a wide shoulder to the right of the judder bars, typically the debris is so bad we have to ride the white line to the left of the judder bars otherwise we'd be flatting all day long. Some drivers don't like this and figure we should be over in the shoulder. As a matter of fact, yesterday we had some jokester driving right up behind us in the shoulder. He was almost clear over to the right of the white line! I'm watching this in my mirror and freaking out and yelling to Mike, "This guys is right on our tails and isn't moving over!!!" It was like he was playing chicken. Finally at the last minute he got back in the slow lane. What an idiot! That had me shaking my head for a while.

Tonight we arrived in Berea, an artisan community that some consider the Folk Arts and Craft Capital of Kentucky. At Berea College students can attend for free as long as they work a certain number of hours each week for the college. As a matter of fact, our host Neil started his weaving career by working in the weaving studio at the college his sophomore year. He couldn't think of anything else he would rather do and has continued to make weaving his life's work. His wife Mary also weaves but in addition, she makes these beautiful corn husk dolls.

Above Neil and Mary's studio they run the Morning Glory Bed & Bath (Bath because they don't do Breakfast). The Adventure Cycling maps list their B & B but they were also highly recommended to us by folks who commented on our blog. We arrived at the studio around 4:30P.M. and Neil took time to show us how his various looms operate. His biggest loom, an AVL Loom on which he is currently weaving a chenille throw, was made in Chico, California where we once lived! In was fascinating to watch him as the shuttle flew back and forth working the magic.

We settled in upstairs and got cleaned up in time to visit another nearby shop full of incredible artisan works in pottery, wood, glass and more. Just across the street was dinner at the Black Feather Cafe where the service was outstanding, the atmosphere was relaxing and the food was superb. Mike had a panini and I had a delectable chicken and mushroom crepe with a fresh salad. Gregory enjoyed a fancy grilled cheese and experienced his first Italian soda. He was trying to get Dad to go for the gelato but with a gallon Zip lock full of Halloween candy back at the room that wasn't going to happen.

Berea holds a special place in our memories because this was our jumping off point for our 1994 Trans Am journey. Mike and I rode East to West in 1994 on single bikes and started in Berea. We had a wedding in Cincinnati, Ohio in late June and got a late start therefore chose Berea versus starting on the coast in Yorktown, Virginia.

Early one morning we said goodbye to Mike's parents who had driven us over from North Carolina in their RV and we made our start out west. The only problem was that we left all of our water bottles back home in the fridge! We bought large liter bottles of water and stuffed them in the mesh pockets of both the front and rear panniers. With temperatures in the high 80s and 80 percent humidity we were worried we might run out of water. We'd done some training rides but only one 50 mile jaunt fully loaded so this was the true test. Unfortunately, with the added weight of the liter water bottles on my front panniers, I had too much weight up front and just 10 miles out I got a high speed wobble traveling downhill. My front wheel went off the asphalt and I tried to correct and get back on the road but it was then that I joined the "over the handlebars club." Mike said he saw the whole thing, I screamed and flew over the bars with the crushing initial impact to my helmet and right shoulder. I lay motionless in the middle of the road staring up at the sky as Mike hovered over me asking if I was alright. I'd cracked my helmet and my ribs and took a couple of layers of skin off my right shoulder and my right knee and leg also took a beating. Later when we met up with an older gentleman, Bo Turner, who was cycling solo with a sag, he said I'd never make it. Well, I proved him wrong. I rode 55 miles that first day and kept plugging along broken ribs and all. That first month was shear determination. Mike put his hand on my back and pushed me up most of those Kentucky hills. As a complete rookie tourist I suffered with a sore bottom and wore two pairs of shorts but with broken ribs I was actually more comfortable on the bike than lying on the ground in my tent. Every night I had to wake Mike to help me up from my horizontal position and out the tent so I could visit the "Ladies." I tell you the man is a saint. Anyhow, the bike tour wasn't enough of a challenge so I figured I'd add broken ribs to the equation…

We thought we might be riding past my crash site but with the bridge out we had our detour and came in on Highways 52 and 21. I've still had a chance to reminisce and Mike and I are looking forward to the riding the upcoming portion of the Trans Am since it is territory we haven't covered before.

Day 108 ~ Hail and Mail

Kentucky #4 and "FARM plate" #2. This one has the 4H symbol on it. Gregory got 2 Kentucky plates from Beth and Garry on Feltus Holler Farm and one from cousin John in Prospect, KY.

Gregory was especially cold this morning so Mom grabbed what was handy, her fleece, and layered it on top of the long underwear, bike jersey, fleece and rain jacket he was already wearing...His heavy gloves are under there somewhere also...

Arriving at the Kentucky Fudge Company for lunch after collecting our packages from the post office in Harrodsburg. It looks sunny but it was cold and wet and we just got hailed on!

Halloween goodies from Aunt Carrie, Uncle Steve and Cousin Zane in Washington State.

Treats from Chico, California and our good friends The Lewis Family!

SHARE THE ROAD

Gregory especially liked this plate on the car out in front of Danville Bike and Footwear.

Photo taken by Gregory

Sunset on the ride to Mark and Joni's house.

Gregory plays with Canyon under a beautiful fall tree in Mark and Joni's yard.

Date: November 4, 2009

From: Lawrenceburg, Kentucky

To: Danville, Kentucky

Route: Hwy. 127

Miles Today: 34 miles

TOTAL MILES: 3,053 miles

Top Speed on this trip: 54.1 mph

Weather: Cloudy & 39 degrees in A.M, Hail at 11:00, Sunny & 50s in afternoon

License Plates Collected: 5 Montana, 8 Wyoming (2 motorcycle) and 1 Idaho (found in WY), 2 Colorado, 1 Kansas (Gifted from David of Baldwin City), 1 Missouri (To be sent to Grammy’s by our new buddy, Kansas City firefighter Shawn), 1 Illinois, 4 Kentucky (2 Gifted from Beth and Garry Feltus, one gifted from cousin John, one from Hwy. 127)

Flats: 9

Broken Spokes: 3

Cracked Rim: 1

Our first hail of the trip! Mike and Gregory were coming out of the Harrodsburg post office with armloads of packages and it started to hail on us! A nice lady I'd been talking to got a plastic bag from her car for us to carry our packages and I balanced 2 boxes and one large envelope while we rode up Main Street to find a lunch spot. As we pushed the bike across the intersection the CPA on the corner leaned out his door, asked about our trip and recommended Kentucky Fudge Company at the top of the street (steep street) all the while we are getting hailed on! The hail quickly turned to rain and we had a long lunch to avoid the cloudy, wet and cold weather and also because we were enjoying the packages from our family and friends.

Gregory got all kinds of Halloween goodies from his cousin Zane including a United States License Plate Map Game from State Farm (Uncle Steve is an agent). We completed the map and realized that Gregory has most of the U.S. state names and locations memorized though he does need to work on some of the ones he hasn't ridden through. We also did the Halloween word search and crossword they sent. Thanks guys! Grandma and Grandpa Williams sent a cute Halloween card with a skeleton on a bike and some spending money for Gregory (to get a treat) and Grammy and Papa Winter also sent a card and some spending money! Grammy also sent out a couple of essentials like our Microsoft Office discs (remember we had our desktop scrubbed in St. Louis and they wouldn't reload "Office" because it isn't an Apple product) and an extra jog bra for me since a washing machine ate one of mine!! Gregory got a belated birthday card and Subway gift card (his favorite!) from his Aunt Kim and Uncle Starrett and our friends Blue and Craig (from Ferguson, MO) sent us a bunch of great gift cards including: WalMart, Walgreens, Arbys, Wendys and Subway! It doesn't stop there! Our dear friends the Lewis family sent us a care package with all sorts of great Chico, California products including Lundberg Farms Rice Chips, Honey Sticks, "Happy Camper" Peanut Brittle, Cinnamon Toothpicks (I loved these as a kid), Maisie Jane's California Sunshine Orange & Spice Almonds, Pop Rocks, etc. etc. Thank you to everyone for making this such a fun mail stop! We are now about 15 pounds heavier so we better get busy and start eating up these goodies. It won't take long!

The mail stop really served to buoy our spirits since it was cloudy, cold and spitting rain all morning as we road 20 miles along the busy Highway 127. Gregory started the day with just his lightweight gloves and before he said anything about being cold, his little hands were like ice cubes. The cars zoomed by as I put his heavy gloves on him and because my fleece jacket was handy on top I put that on over his rain jacket (it wasn't raining yet at this point and I thought it would warm him up)! After the rain started we had to stop again and take my fleece off and put his extra fleece on under the rain jacket.

Harrodsburg was where we rejoined the TransAm route so after lunch we headed out of town to hop of the road towards Berea, our destination for the day. Along the way we stopped on the side of the road to confirm directions and had the good fortune of meeting Jim Hicks. He confirmed that we were indeed on Hwy. 152 and then we had a nice chat with him before heading out. We crossed over Hwy. 127 and headed out on Hwy. 152 only to find no shoulder and a steady stream of traffic including a lot of semis and trucks hauling gravel from the gravel plant right where these highways intersect. Mike was already grumbling about how much fun this road was going to be and had pulled off to let some traffic by when Jim Hicks pulled in behind us. He got to talking to his wife about us and she remembered that the bridge on our route, that crosses Harrington Lake between Burgin and Bryantsville, was currently closed!! It is a good thing we met Jim or we would have had another "bridge out" backtracking experience like we had the other day on our way into Prospect! Ernst, at the Danville Bike and Footwear confirmed the bridge situation and recommended another route which meant going back to the junction of Hwy. 152 and Hwy. 127 and continuing on Hwy. 127 to Danville. I wasn't excited about getting back on 127, which we'd been on all morning, but at this point we didn't have much choice.

The ride from Harrodsburg to Danville wasn't too bad since the sun came out from behind the clouds and warmed us a bit though it was still in the 50s. Unfortunately, Mike became uncomfortable complaining that it felt like he was sitting on a ball. I initially thought, uh oh he has that same sort of pea-sized ball I got with my nasty saddle sore…but as he explained it more I came to find out that he was feeling bruised on his sit bone. At first Gregory and I were joking around saying, "Mike has a ball on his bottom. Ha. Ha." It was kind of funny at first but we could tell when it was time to cut that out. He was really hurting. At any rate he spent the last few miles into Danville trying to adjust and I could tell he was really uncomfortable. As we entered town he announced, "I'm done." I think we were all a little relieved because it had just been a rough day for everyone. I didn't even mention my itchy watery eyes. I still haven't figured out what is going on but I'm sure the fact that I tossed and turned all night last night and didn't get much sleep contributed to the problem. I'm going to "hit the hay" earlier tonight.

In Danville we first went to the bike shop to meet Ernst and thank him for his help. We enjoyed looking around his shop and looking at his pictures of the touring he has done with his kids. He rode a tandem with his son Andrew when he was only 10 years old and they have done various sections of the TransAm over the years. We told Ernst that we were staying over tonight and asked if he knew anyone who would host some cyclists. His house was in chaos at the moment but he connected us with Mark and Joni who are good friends and also enjoy cycling and running.

Mark made us feel welcome from the moment we spoke with him on the phone. Even though he knew he'd be home late, and his wife was out of town until after midnight, he still invited us to ride on over to his home and make ourselves comfortable until he got there. We let ourselves in and had showers and put in a load of laundry before Mark showed up. We learned that Mark and Joni have three terrific sons who are all accomplished runners and are off leading lives of their own. Their home is very inviting especially since you are welcomed by Joni's many handmade quilts.

Mark cooked up some quesadillas and we had a really nice visit. After a call from his wife, Mark told us that she had seen us on the road earlier that day!! It makes me think about how interconnected we all are and how we may not even realize when our life touches another. Tonight we are blessed to have met Jim Hicks who gave us directions and saved us from a bridge out; Ernst at the Danville Bike Shop who we called to confirm about the bridge, who shared his TransAm journey with us, and who connected us with Mark and Joni who have welcomed us in their lovely home.

Day 107 ~ Rottweilers

Bison in Kentucky?

Horse by Gregory

This shop in Shelbyville, Kentucky is ready for Christmas. Didn't we just celebrate Halloween?

Gregory just decided to plop himself down right on the shoulder while his dad was on the phone across the street.

I can't remember whether I've posted a shadow picture yet...I just love cycling on a sunny day and watching our shadow pedaling along beside us.

The trees are looking pretty bare...

Date: November 3, 2009

From: Prospect, Kentucky (Near Louisville)

To: Lawrenceburg, Kentucky (20 more miles to Harrodsburg where we'll rejoin the TransAm)

Route: Back roads

Miles Today: 66 miles

TOTAL MILES: 3,019 miles

Top Speed on this trip: 54.1 mph

Weather: Cool, 50s, Clear and Sunny

License Plates Collected: 5 Montana, 8 Wyoming (2 motorcycle) and 1 Idaho (found in WY), 2 Colorado, 1 Kansas (Gifted from David of Baldwin City), 1 Missouri (To be sent to Grammy’s by our new buddy, Kansas City firefighter Shawn), 1 Illinois, 3 Kentucky (2 Gifted from of Beth and Garry Feltus and one gifted from cousin John)

Flats: 9

Broken Spokes: 3

Cracked Rim: 1

Today was a sort of John Denver "Country Roads…Take Me Home…To The Place…I Belong…" kind of day. About one chorus was all I could sing before Gregory started singing something else to get me to stop. I thought I was pretty good but what do I know.

About a third of the way through our 65-mile day, as I looked out across the hills of Kentucky, I said to Mike and Gregory, "This has been a pretty nice day… lots of pretty farms to look at…lots of sunshine…quiet roads… " then, YIKES! I looked right and two enormous rottweilers were suddenly beside the bike and lunging at us. "STOP!" I screamed. "BACK! GET BACK!" My heart was in my throat. I mean I was more than a bit freaked out. The gruff voice worked and the dogs stopped but kept on barking. As I glanced back I saw their owner coming around from behind his home and I heard him say, "I'm sorry!" I would rather he got an electric fence or chained up his dogs than be sorry. So much for my nice quiet country roads! The American Kennel Club describes these dogs as robust and powerful dogs. I'd say yes!

Saying goodbye to our cousins today was tough. There were hugs all around as the kids headed out the door to school. Kim decided to walk the kids to school and Gregory went along on a scooter. Alex decided he wanted to buy Gregory something at the bookstore and Gregory was thrilled to get a 4-color pen which he used tonight to write in his journal. When Gregory came back from his walk he came in the door and said, "Ahhhhhh, sweet warmth!" It was pretty cute. His cheeks and ears were bright red. It was pretty chilly. We spent some time visiting with John before he left for work at 8:00 A.M. and then visited some more with Kim before leaving at 9:45 A.M. We waved goodbye all the way down the street until we couldn't see Kim any longer…

We didn't get far before Gregory was complaining of being itchy all over including his bottom. Once away from the homes we stopped to dust his shorts with "Anti-Monkey Butt" powder (something we bought from Duluth Trading Co. before we left and has been working fabulously for Mike and I) and I rubbed some lotion on his back and around his waistline. My first thought was that he might find the laundry soap we used to be irritating. At any rate, the powder and lotion did the trick and we didn't have any more complaints today.

One thing I forgot to mention a couple of days ago was our 9th flat (rear tire). We discovered it when we brought Mike's cousin Julie down to the basement to show off the bike. Mike quickly repaired the tire and he also moved Gregory's pedals out one notch (or hole) on his crank shorteners. The last time we did this was in Dillon, Colorado. Gregory is getting so tall. He is also noticing how muscular his legs are getting. We were all checking out our muscles the other day. Those legs are S-O-L-I-D!

We pulled into Shelbyville, about 30 miles into our day, and decided to have some lunch. We saw a bike shop so Mike pulled into a parking space and I offered to be the human kickstand while Mike and Gregory went across the street to ask at the bike shop for a lunch recommendation. After a good 20 minutes or so of standing in the shade holding up the bike the steam was starting to come out of my ears. This is pretty amazing considering how COLD I was getting. I was furious and I was about ready to lay the bike down and storm into the bike shop and give Mike a piece of my mind. Lucky for him a nice couple from Tennessee started asking me about the bike and our trip. Mike really should thank them. When Gregory and Mike finally came back I said, "What have you guys been doing? I'm freezing to death here!" Again, the folks from Tennessee served as a buffer here. It took me a good long time to get warm again. Oh, by the way, the boys were getting an alternate route with fewer hills and less traffic so I guess I'll forgive them. I guess…

We arrived at our destination of Lawrenceburg around 5:10 P.M. We stopped in at Taco Bell to find out where the Best Western was and after standing at the counter being ignored for about 5 minutes and finally getting no help at all we opted to move on. We decided to have dinner before finding the motel but we've banned Taco Bell since Mike has had two food poisoning episodes there… Next door the marquee at the Huddle House was calling our name, "Two Burgers and Two Fries for $5.99 and Kids Eat Free Tuesdays!" Mike and I chowed down some double burgers and fries while Gregory ate one single and then polished off one more! I was feeling a bit punchy after an exhausting day and I was doing some sit-in-my-seat dance moves and some singing to a Prince tune that was rockin' the Huddle House. We were all cracking up and this continued with some WHAM! and some Duran, Duran. I'm sure I was embarrassing Mike and Gregory but we were all cracking up over it. There was only one other customer in the place so what the hey! The waitress came over and said I had a great laugh. I thanked her and told her I got it from my mom who sounds exactly like me. People find it difficult to tell us apart on the phone. Anyhow, the compliment made my night.